MONT BLANC THE HARD WAY

THE TROIS MONTS – AD- (A bit tricksome)

This used to be one of the most frequented routes on Mont Blanc as it is a very picturesque traverse over Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m) and Mont Maudit (4465m) then past the spectacular col Brenva up to the summit. Due to glacial changes in recent years the route has become steeper and more serious and in 2017 the guiding ratio was lowered to 1:1 for this route. Under the right conditions it provides a spectacular way of reaching the Alps’ highest summit and when combined with the Gouter route a fine horseshoe traverse.

GUIDED DAYS: 6     

GUIDING RATIO & COST, 1:1 €3295      

THE AIGUILLE GRISES (THE POPE ROUTE) – PD+ (Technically not hard but long and remote)

The normal route from the Italian side of the mountain is long and remote without the benefits of mechanical uplift like the French side. As such it is less frequented and is a satisfying mountaineering adventure especially when combined with a descent down the Gouter route to Chamonix making a traverse of the mountain.

GUIDED DAYS: 6           

GUIDING RATIO & COST, 1:1 €3395, 1:2 €1750 per person

THE ROYAL TRAVERSE – AD (Hard enough)

This is a splendid and committing high mountain odyssey which traverses the skyline view as seen on the approach towards Mont Blanc down the Arve valley. Starting from the village of Les Contamines-Montjoie without lifts we traverse the Dome de Miage to reach the remote Refuge Durier (3358m). The traverse continues over the Aiguille de Bionnassay (4053m) where the summit ridge is one of the most impressive narrow and exposed snow crests in the Alps - only perfect crampon work will do. This brings us past the Piton des Italians to the final climb up the Bosses ridge to the summit of Mont Blanc (4810m). Descent can be via the Trois Monts route to the Aiguille du Midi (if in condition) or down the Gouter Ridge. This is a long and demanding Alpine day which rewards good fitness and preparation.

GUIDED DAYS: 6           

GUIDING RATIO & COST, 1:1 €3500

THE INNOMINATA RIDGE – D+ (On the difficult side of difficult)

A remote and committing climbers’ route to the summit of Mont Blanc from the Italian side. We climb through some of the most chaotic glaciated terrain in the Alps to gain the Col Eccles (4000m) before climbing excellent granite, steep snow crests and mixed ground to reach Mont Blanc de Courmayeur. In true style we then traverse over the summit and descend into France.

GUIDED DAYS: 6           

GUIDING RATIO, 1:1 PRICE ON REQUEST  

THE PEUTEREY INTEGRALE – ED (Extremely difficult and they aren’t kidding!)

The big one. Literally, this is the longest ridge and route in the Alps with a cumulative ascent of nearly 4500m and is a rarely completed and serious undertaking. Seen from the Skyway lift in profile the ridge is a compelling line and undoubtedly one of the finest in the Alps with technical difficulties on both rock and mixed terrain. The ascent climbs over the rocky towers of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (3772m) before making some of the most exposed abseils in the Alps to regain the ridge which leads over the steep snow crest of the Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (4112m). The final hurdle is ‘just’ the 800m climb up the seriously exposed upper Peuterey ridge to the summit of Mont Blanc before descending the French side. Three long days and two bivouacs are the norm!

GUIDED DAYS: 6           

GUIDING RATIO, 1:1      Price on request

The ski ascent of Mont Blanc via the Grand Mulets route is described in the ski section.